"Everything Imaginable Made of Sugar"
Translation of the third course of
The first banquet for Emperors for the early meal on a meat day, and
re-creation of a selection of said third course
from
Ein New Kochbuch by Marxen Rumpolt

© 1999 by M. Grasse

As entered in the
Kingdom of the Outlands Queens Prize Competition 1998
By Gwen Catrin von Berlin


Erste Keyserliche Bancket zum Frümahl / am Fleischtag
The first banquet for Emperors for the early meal on a meat-day.

TRANSLITERATION
TRANSLATION
#
Marcepan von Mandel gemacht
Marzipan made of almond
1
Confect von Apffel
Candy (or confit?) made of apple
2
Gesotten Birn fein rot
Stewed pears, fine red
3
Ein Marcepan Krapfflin
A marzipan fried cake
4
Ein Precedeil von Mandel gemacht
A pretzel of almond
5
Ein Marcepan von Welschen Nuessen
A marzipan of walnuts
6
Ein Marcepan von roren Hasel Nuessen
A marzipan of red (raw) hazel nuts
7
Ein Precedeil gemacht von Ehern
A pretzel made of eggs
8
Ein Lebkuchen
A gingerbread
9
Ein Quitten Safft
A quince juice
10
Ein Quitten Lattwerk
A quince lattice work? (a pie?)
11
Ein Apffel Safft
An apple juice
12
Binungade
Pearade?
13
Überzogen Mandel
Coated almond
14
Überzogen HaselNuß
Coated hazel nut
15
Überzogen Eniß
Coated anise
16
Überzogen Coriander Coated coriander 17
Überzogen Zimmet Coated cinnamon 18
Überzogen Negelin Coated cloves 19
Überzogen Ingwer Coated ginger 20
Überzogen Zirbelnhß Kern Coated pinion nut 21
Überzogen Bischen klein/ von allerley Farben Coated little bits of all colors 22
Kesten von Mandel gemacht Boxes made of almond 23
Mandel Zurten Almond Zurten (torten??) 24
Kalbskopff von Zucker gemacht Calves head made of sugar 25
Kapaunen von Zucker gemacht
Capons made of sugar 26
Sponsaw von Zucker gemacht Thrushes made of sugar 27
Junge Hühner von Zucker gemacht Young chickens made of sugar 28
Kramatsvoegel von Zucker gemacht Juniper Thrushes made of sugar 29
Lerchen von Zucker gemacht Larks made of sugar 30
Scheinskopff von Zucker gemacht Pigs head made of sugar 31
Westphalische Schincken von Zucker gemacht
Westphalian hams made of sugar 32
Würst von Zucker gemacht Sausage made of sugar 33
Semmel von Zucker gemacht Rolls made of sugar 34
Teller von Zucker gemacht Plates made of sugar 35
Karwenada von Zucker gemacht Karvenada (sausage?) made of sugar 36
Kesten von Zucker gemacht Boxes made of sugar 37
Apffel von Zucker gemacht
Apples made of sugar 38
Birn von Zucker gemacht Pears made of sugar 39
Haselnüß von Zucker gemacht Hazelnuts (filberts) made of sugar 40
Melonen von Zucker gemacht Melons made of sugar 41
Eineumern von Zucker gemacht Buckets made of sugar 42
Welsche Nuess von Zucker gemacht Walnuts made of sugar 43
Dischfazenebel von Zucker gemacht Thick rags of fog??? made of sugar 44
Ein Tischtuch von Zucker gemacht A tablecloth made of sugar 45
Kürbiß von Zucker gemacht Pumpkin made of sugar 46
Salzfässer von Zucker gemacht Salt-barrels made of sugar 47
Kirschen von Zucker gemacht Cherries made of sugar 48
Pfersing von Zucker gemacht Peaches made of sugar 49
Marillen von Zucker gemacht Marillen (yellow cherries) made of sugar 50
Ungerische Pflaumen von Zucker gemacht
Hungarian plums made of sugar 51
Gelbe Pflaumen von Zucker gemacht Yellow plums made of sugar 52
Quitten von Zucker gemacht Quince made of sugar 53
Trauben von Zucker gemacht Grapes made of sugar 54
Hammelsbug von Zucker gemacht Mutton roast made of sugar 55
Zülegsthück von einem Hammel von Zucker gemacht Leg of mutton made of sugar 56
Ein Ganss von Zucker gemacht A Goose made of sugar 57
Mispeln von Zucker gemacht
Mistletoe made of sugar 58
Ein Parmesan Käß von Zucker gemacht A Parmesan cheese made of sugar 59
Kleine Schaf Käß von Zucker gemacht Small sheep cheese made of sugar 60
Ein Schloß gemacht von Zucker/ und alles darein/ was in das Schloß gehört A castle made of sugar/ and everything therein what belongs in a castle 61
Ein Korb gemacht von Zucker/und allerley Obss darinn A basket made of sugar and filled with assorted fruit 62
Junge Hasen von Zucker gemacht Young rabbits made of sugar 63
Kleine Hähnelein von Zucker gemacht Small dogs/puppies made of sugar 64
Ein Wagen mit sampt den Pferten / auch wie Personen darinn sißen / von Zucker
A wagon with horses and persons sitting upon it made of sugar 65
Arnschock von Zucker gemacht Artichoke made of sugar 66
Kepffel Salat von Zucker gemacht A head of lettuce made of sugar 67
Weißkraut von Zucker gemacht Cabbage made of sugar 68
Rettich von Zucker gemacht Radish made of sugar 69
Rüben von Zucker gemacht Carrots made of sugar 70
Endivien Salat von Zucker gemacht Endive lettuce made of sugar 71
Carduß Salat von Zucker gemacht Carduss ? lettuce made of sugar 72
Cicorien Salat von Zucker gemacht Chicory lettuce made of sugar 73
Zucker Wurßel von Zucker gemacht Sugar beet made of sugar 74
Allerley grün Salat von Zucker gemacht Assorted green lettuce made of sugar 75
Allerley Rosen und Blumen von Zucker gemacht Assorted roses and flowers made of sugar 76
Allerley Figuren von Zucker gemacht Assorted figures made of sugar 77
Eydechssen und Schlangen / auch allerley Their und Menschen so Salamanders (Lizards) and snakes and assorted animals and people made of sugar 78
Eten was der Mensch erdenken kan von Zucker gemacht Everything a man can imagine/imaginable made of sugar 79
Und aber der leßten Gang Donner und Blitz v/ von Rosenwasser und Confect zugericht And also the last course thunder and lightning/ from rosewater and confections prepared 80
Zucker Holhippen weiß Sugar sweetmeats? white 81
Zucker Holhippen gelb Sugar sweetmeats? yellow 82
Zucker Holhippen grün Sugar sweetmeats? green 83
Zucker Holhippen von Zimmet
Sugar sweetmeats? of cinnamon 84
Zucker Holhippen von Negelein Sugar sweetmeats? of cloves 85
Kleine Holhippen gemacht von Teig Small sweetmeats? made of dough, 86
Grosse Holhippen / gemacht von grünen Krautern / von Teig Large sweetmeats? made with green herbs, of dough 87

Ende deß ersten Keyserlichen Banckets zum Frümahl / am Fleischtag
End of the first Emperors banquet for the early meal on a meat-day.

Documentation:
Ein New Kochbuch by Marx Rumpolt was published in 1581. Several facsimile pages of the original cookbook are posted on the Web by Duke Cariadoc (Thank you very much!) I chose to translate a section of this cookbook into English, and then document and re-create select items from the translated portion of the cookbook. Because I have a special interest in sweets, I chose to concentrate on the third course "the fruits" most of which are elaborate sugar subtleties.

In Rumpolt's Ein New Kochbuch I was intrigued by items 14 - 20 (sugarcoated nuts and seeds) and thought others might be interested in tasting them also. I found documentation and instructions for the sugar coated seeds in Recipe #54 of Delights for Ladies… - "The art of comfet-making, teaching how to cover all kinds of seeds, fruits or spices with sugar."

The sugar plate or sugar paste I used to create the small items (28, 32, 33, 34, 35, 38, 39, 47, 49, 51, 57, 59, 60, 63, 68, 69, 74, etc…,) is listed in several sources including A Taste of History - 10,000 years of Food in Britain which lists a recipe from A good housewife Jewel by Thomas Dawson; and.in Delights for Ladies… There are two recipes: #10 "A most delicate and stiff sugar paste, whereof to cast Rabbets, Pigeons, or any other little bird or beast, eyther from the life or carved mould;" and #13 "The making of sugar-paste, and casting thereof into carved moulds…." Unfortunately, recipe # 13 and the recipe in A Taste of History include raw egg white, and modern science has alerted us to the dangers of salmonella, so I chose to substitute meringue powder as a safer alternative. I have no indication as to whether the original third course had the items in real-life size or in a small scale. I chose to use small scale (about 1'=1") to provide bite sized items for folk to taste (often one is reluctant to cut, break or damage an item for a taste, so a single-bite sized sample is preferable).

The colors used to color the sugar plate are from period ingredients and created by using period methods. Sir Hugh describes in his recipe #38 "How To color Sugar Plate with several colours"; and in recipe # 14 "A way to make Sugarplate both the colour and taste of any flower." Based on these sources I chose to use colors that would impart a pleasant flavor to the sugarpaste:

Brown Cinnamon
Green Mint leaves (homegrown)
Red Rose petals (homegrown by my brother)
Yellow Safflower (also known as Bastard Saffron or Saffron Thistle) blossoms used here as a substitute for the rarer and more costly saffron

In the Summer 1992 issue (#103) of Tournaments Illuminated, Alys Katharine of Ashthorne Glen (Elise Fleming) wrote a very comprehensive article on "Sugar Paste: A Cook's Play Dough." I also accessed A Collection of Medieval and Renaissance Cookbooks compiled by Duke Cariadoc of the Bow and The Duchessa Diana Alena wherein I found period recipes and instructions in Delights for Ladies… by Sir Hugh Plat; specifically in his section on "The Art of Preserving."

Item 61 on the list: "A Castle made of sugar, and everything therein made of sugar" was created using Delights for Ladies recipe # 43 "Casting of Sugar in partie moulds of wood." I interpreted this to be a similar technique as that used to create the sugar eggs sometimes seen at Easter. This item only is designed solely for visual appeal, it is not intended to be eaten. The gold leaf on the roof is NOT 24 carat.

To give a complete cross section of selections from the third course (and to provide a way for folk to wash a taste sample down) I included item 12 (an apple juice).

Sugared Nuts & Seeds

Sugar Plate

Sugar Castle


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